Monday, June 27, 2011

Neiafu, Tonga

Many people on sailboats come here every year, or stay the year round. They have a cruiser's radio net here on channel 26 every morning at 8:30. In this quiet town with many businesses specifically catering to the needs and whims of cruisers, we can find pretty much anything we want (BACON!), if we're willing to pay. Flat anchorages, internet, laundry service, groceries, fresh produce are the things we've enjoyed so far.

The Vavau group of Tonga is a cruiser's playground. Only about 20 x 20 miles square, there are 40 anchorages (according to the Moorings charterboat literature) in a variety of settings. Not only that, there is a surf spot, humpback whales and babies to see, flying foxes (aka large fruit bats), coral reefs to snorkel, tropical green islands and coves, and plenty of Tongan handicrafts to purchase.

Eloise has enjoyed the large variety of street dogs to wave at and talk to (from a distance), the pigs and chickens wandering around, and the clerks at one of the whale watching shops who like to hold her. She has mastered almost all of the climbing necessary to get to any place in the boat...adding to our need for vigilance. Oops, she's awake.

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Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Ha'afeva

I pulled out my final supply of a dozen eggs this morning and they are all mouldy on the outside of the shells. Provisions are getting low. Sugar, flour, rice, lentils, nuts now eggs are down to the final meals. The small yellow stifling box of a building run by a Chinese man had little to bolster the missing items. Some weevilly flour in holey plastic bags didn't appeal but I bought 6 eggs for 6 Pa'anga (3 US$) and some breakfast crackers. We have plenty of starchy roots: cassava, "yam", and potatoes, and breadfruit (not a root). So, we can eat like the locals eat which is not what I'm used to but should be just fine. except that with Toby aboard it's humbling for me to not have interesting, appetizing meals every day. It's something I have taken pride in for our entire cruising life, that I can (if not seasick) whip up a tasty treats out of simple ingredients. Things are getting a bit on the skimpy side however, partially due to my new reticence to purchase and eat items from cans. The lining of tin cans is usually made from polycarbonate (Plastic recycling #7). "Polycarbonate plastic is made with bisphenol A, which can leach….especially when heated. Bisphenol A [a.k.a. BPA] is a homone disruptor, linked to early onset of puberty, obesity, recurrent miscarriages, and decreased sperm count, and is associated with breast and prostate cancers." (Slow Death by Rubber Duck, p. 272-273).

So, I didn't stock up with the usual standbys of canned soups for health reasons, but it sure is cramping my meal prep style.

Meal prep for Eloise is still pretty simple. If I don't want her eating what I make for the grownups, I can scramble her an egg or steam her a carrot. She also has been nursing frequently because of that lower right molar that just keeps growing under her gums.

In other news, the island of Ha'afeva has been enjoyable. There's a ½ mile walk into town from where we are anchored on the west side of the island. We pass young cows, taro and cassava farms, mango trees, pigs, and the frondy trees that are used for weaving mats and numerous other handicrafts. Eloise waves at every cow, points and waves at each pig and squeaks and points when she sees something particularly interesting.

Lucy is a local lady with six children, an industrious husband and a bedridden father. I had been hoping to meet someone to hand off some of Eloise's outgrown clothes and found her in Lucy. Lucy has also been eager to meet cruisers to make them handicrafts, do washing or provide traditional Tongan meals. She told us she doesn't want to charge money but just to have people trade whatever they think they want to give her. Her kind offerings to make Eloise numerous woven items made us want to give right back to her.

Lucy's neighbor, Peter, on the other hand, with his repeated requests for money, petrol, etc. is not so easy to befriend. I can show up at Lucy's house and visit with her and her kids and ask questions about their culture, take pictures of her kids being cute, etc. With Peter's constant opportunistic mindset, there's no relationship, no sign of interest in getting to know one another, as with Lucy. They each see palangis (foreigners) as a means to improved lives but the difference is in the approach and how they treat the palangis.

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Sunday, June 5, 2011

Ode to Nappy Liners

Another rainy day, another day to wash diapers, and to collect 50 gallons of rain to fill our port side water tank.

So, a nappy liner (aka bio liner, diaper liner) is about the same feel as a dryer sheet, without the perfumes. When poop is deposited into the diaper, it does not smear into the cloth diaper. Instead, the liner contains all consistencies of poop. Changing the diaper consists of lifting out the diaper liner from both ends, dumping it into a garbage can/toilet, and then tossing the diaper into the laundry. No smeared in feces, no scraping with spatulas, etc. A slight poop discoloration is easily rinsed out. These make cloth diapers very practical.

More on the Nomad adventures to come....we are currently in a holding pattern as the
weather is blowing! we've been waiting to head to the Haapai group for the last 4 days and won't be leaving today or tomorrow. Last night 4 of the boats in this anchorage were driving around in 35/40 knot gusts cuz of anchors dragging. It was not a happy sight. We thought highly of our 1300 dollar anchor chain at that point. Eloise missed all the excitement and slept right through the jet turbine noises gusting over the boat.

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Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Boat projects in tropical place

"Cruising is repairing your boat in exotic places" is a well worn cruiser joke. It's so well worn because it's quite true. Brian has rigged a tarp on the top deck, has the mainsail down and is replacing the grommets that are used to attach the sail to the mast. We have a more than 10 year old sail so it needs constant attention.

Yesterday was our 9 year anniversary! It needs constant attention, also :) We spent the day doing a variety of things. we cleaned the boat, we each ran around the island twice (took me 20 minutes per lap), and we took Eloise boogie boarding before her swim lesson. Since the only waves were the 3 inch wake from the fishing boats that motored past, the fun thing to do was to position Eloise on the board and give it little pushes back and forth between Mommy and Daddy in one foot of water. Her happy smile and attentive pose showed she was enjoying her new experience. She needs all the distractions she can get right now, as she is working on pushing out two of her molars.

We are working on a couple of projects and waiting for the weather to switch around before heading up to the Haapai group of islands to the north. (it is still part of Tonga, they just break up their country into groups).

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